No more updates to this page. As the build continues it will all be on the BODY tab.

Chassis (most recent to top of page). I suggest you read from bottom up. Details of engine are on the engine page.

A photo of the towbar and fuel tank.

Steering was crack tested for engineering. The tag is for the pressure test of the fuel tank.

Over Easter 2021 I finally got to set this down on its wheels for the first time since the rebuild. The body is being painted and will arrive home in the next few days. I have to roll the chassi out and turn it around first. I made the dolleys so I could slide the rear sideways. Yellow pool noodles save the shins.

This was taken March 23rd 2021..

Close up of RH front showing P/S pump and heat shields and plumbing.

More rear shots showing fuel filter and lines.

Finally the fuel tank and got the lines connected to the pump.

Next was the rear axle and sway bar, then tailshaft.

Next were the heat shields, 3 hours of fiddling. Then I added the fuel return line, one A/C line that goes across the trans to the front A/C.

Also the battery cables that are enclosed in a sheath and lay on top loosely. I might zip-tie it later.

Getting there !!

Rear has 2 mufflers, one straight through and the other offset. I hope it still sounds ok but not loud. Not sure why I polished the top of these pipes !!

Those alloy pipes are for rear heater.

The Y piece ws a nightmare to make. A small bracket off the trans at right takes the load off the joins.

This bracket holds the power steering reservoir, p/s cooler and also the surge tank (later). Because the p/s pump is only a few inches from the p/s box I had a choice of really short hoses that would likely break, or longer ones that were able to flex. The black hose feeds across and then a long stainless pipe connects to the box.

I have all these pipe spanners, but not the 2 sizes I needed !!!!

Before the inlet manifold could be fitted I had to install the 2 factory heater pipes which I modified to go where I wanted them to. They connect to the vacuum operated tap (actuated by a 12v vacuum solonoid) and run to both front and rear heaters. There is a restricter in one of the front hoses to make sure the heat gets to the rear also. The 16 mm aluminium pipes feed the rear heater and were made up by a bloke who makes swimming pool fencing.

Note also the fuel pipe feeding the RH rail with pressure gauge, at the front of the LH rail I have welded on a fitting and that feeds to the regulator on the RHS and to return line.

Next job was to fit the exhaust headers to the engine pipes. The headers were heat-coated and I chose charcoal as a colour. Loctite make this copper RTV sealant. The gaskets supplied were a crap design so I made sure they will not leak.

Oxygen sensors, Cat convertors, flex joints all welded and polished when I had more time about 10 years ago (2010)

Before I could fit the front hubs I needed new bearings, the old ones were stuck hard so I used the old weld technique to shrink them.

Engine going in, what have I forgotten ??

I added the back crossmember and the steering box and got ready to drop the engine in for one last time....

Time to turn it over, the grandkids were there to help.

Here you can see the central steering idler that aligns with the pivot of the lower control eliminating bump steer. The centre triangular part is a copy of the original in 4mm, original was only 2.5. The square bit at front is for the jack. Bushes are HZ Holden with shims to adjust. Lower control arms are copies of priginal modified for balljoints. Stubs are HQ one-tonner.

Next was to assemble the front-end. I had to make a spring compressor that I could disassemble after I connected the ball joints.

Lots of parts hanging up and getting painted with an epoxy primer in black, then a satin topcoat

Here is my nephew Joel polishing the tank. Thanks Joel !!

The fuel tank needed to be modified to fit the Falcon swirl pot and intank pump.

After :

Finally in the shed ready for re-assembly.

All powdercoated !! Thanks to Colin at Bute trays Epsom for the great service and loan of trailer.. The colour is a bit lighter than I wanted but I think will be ok when it is under the car. It is Dulux Pewter Pearl.

One of the jobs I had set for myself during the rebuild was to shorten the rear lower control arms 8 mm, and lengthen the top ones 3 mm to get the diff pointing the right way.

The chassis finally saw daylight after about 12 years. The body is off to the paint shop.

Next task to finish off all the tack welds and remove everything for powdercoating.

The engineering requirement is that it must have at least 2 original crossmembers. I need to re-fit at least a part of this.

Back in the correct position although a lot of it was thrown away.

I made a frame to roll it around on after I turm it upside down. I attached it to the 3 running board brackets each side to protect them too.

The original chassis number was on a section of the frame that was rusted out so I had to remake it and weld it in. To get the numbers impressed deep enough to look factory I had to heat the 3mm steel and whack them pretty hard. I then cut out the section and welded it in.

The numbers are not all that straight, but the factory ones were like that too.. They were in different places depending on the market, RHD were marked with serial numbers and usually behind the wheel, LHD were engine numbers and on the LH front like this. This will be easiest to see when I register it.

I added this little block under the front as a place to put the jack without slipping.

I modified this towbar to fit, the bar clears the bottom of the fuel tank by about 20mm. That is all 5 mm wall thickness steel

including the 2 rear crossmembers.

Testing 123