This is the 2007 6.1 litre (370 cu in) HEMI that runs a Dodge Ram 5-45 RFE auto.

Click here for link to air-filter box page.

 

I had to make some heat shields to go above the Cats and the exhaust, I used this Payen material Part no RM 113 from Repco. Amazing stuff and can be worked like soft alloy.

I had to bend them and cut them, and make some 25x3 flat brackets to hold to the chassis. There will be about 30 mm clearance to the floor.

August 1st 2014: I finally found a spare afternoon and with the help of Steve Thorne we took the engine out of the 34 and put it upside-down on the stand. The plan is to remove the heads and clean it out and do a final paint and assembly, and hopefully a test run. The heads are full of shavings from the porting.

Inlet manifold had to be removed, I took the coil packs and rocker covers off for safety. This is the first time the engine has been out since the floor and firewall were cut out and made removable. I was surprised that I did not even have to remove the rear trans x-member and also the headers were left on the engine.

I had to make an engine lifter, previously the lifter bar was attached to the bell housing bolts with chains but it hit the firewall. This time used both the bell housing bolts and the two 8 mm bolts in the valley for the rear half. The factory lifter just uses those two 8 mm bolts but to me it looked a bit too light. The adjustable lifter bar made getting it balanced easily.

Note the exhaust valves are sitting way over at an angle, almost horizontal.

The Dodge Ram 5-45RFE (2005) auto is huge and had been shipped sitting on the pan denting the centre part about 10 mm.

I took the pan off and bashed out the dent, and also took the opportunity to fit a drain plug to make servicing less messy later on. This trans is a Dodge Ram 5-45 RFE 6 speed that runs as a 5 speed. It has 2 x second gear ratios, one for upshift, and a different one (taller) for kick-down. It also has a spin on filter on the return line system plus the usual pan filter..

A bit more progress this week on the HEMI. I fitted the sump and then gave it a coat of paint after a HUGE clean. The engine fire in the wreck it came from left a charred coating from all the plastics melting off. I had to wash it down with thinners to get it all clean. First I painted it red with VHT but it was crap so I bought some POR-15 Ford Red (sorry to admit that about the colour).. They said it was great to brush but after one coat I rubbed it back and sprayed 2 coats, much better finish. Hopefully it will stay shiney when it cures. The paint on the trans wrinkled in places, a reaction with the previous paint so am re-doing that.

I have a lot of boxes of stuff to attach, new everything as I really don't want to have to try to replace something like a water pump later on when it is on the road just for the sake of $90 now. I fitted a new rear main seal and same at front. The balancer is a press fit, no keyway so I put it in front of a fan heater for an hour then tapped it on with a brass drift. More photos to follow. I am making an engine-trans trolley to store it on while I finish off the body.

The roller cam followers were checked and lubed with Moly for the start-up.

The engine runs cross bolted mains and side oilers in the bores. 425 HP and 420 ft lb needs all the help it can get with lubrication. Hopefully this one will make 500 HP.

The sump gasket incorporates a windage tray.

I psinted it with VHT engine red first but it lacked body and lustre (sounds like shampoo). I then bought POR 15 which they said could be brushed but even though I warmed up the block and paint a little, it had lots of brush marks so I sanded it out and sprayed it again. Much better now. The paint on the trans crinkeled so had to do that again.

 

A couple more engine shots, I went to install the intake manifold and found that the PCV valve remains were still melted into the hole. More cleaning.

Working on the block hugger headers that I got from S&P in the USA, not a bad product but could use better (bigger) gaskets

as I am sure they will leak. The flange surfaces had gaps of about 15 to 20 thou in places so I heated them and clamped to get them straight